Stem and Stern: Shiny Metal Bits

Got the forward staysail and backstay chainplates test fitted. Near perfect fit. I may have to bend the staysail chainplate strap just slightly. Turned out I undersized the length of the flathead socket cap screws for these pieces. The fiberglass is much thicker here than I estimated
I will need to address some gelcoat cracking issues behind the staysail chainplate before it goes in permanently. There is also a big scrape in the gelcoat on the port side near here that will need to be filled and faired as well.

More Metal Bits: Faux Backstay Chainplate

The countersink drilling takes time. Here is the "backstay chainplate". This is really for the sloop configuration. Since we will be a ketch, it will not be used for the backstay. But, I figure we will find some utilitarian use out of it. At the very least the tow point for the dinghy!

Again, we are using flat head socket cap screws instead of carriage bolts. Because they look nicer (especially when polished). Those are 5/8" cap head screws which are WAY bigger than they need to be in terms of strength. But we are going for a nice look here.

Sending off to be polished and welded today.
One "feature" of using our cheap belt driven drill press for the countersinks is that it forces you to go slow. Too much pressure and the belts slip and you need to back off. The downside is that I have worn out the belts. No big deal as they are cheap and readily available at the local auto parts store.

Just about ready to pull the trigger on this one. "Fake" teak to be used for the caprails. As much as I enjoy properly varnished teak, I don't want to be spending a lot of time maintaining it. So I think we will give this stuff a try. Made from recycled plastics, it comes in a variety of dimensions. The 3.5 x .75 inch stuff will work just fine for the caprail. The "grain" on the surface is molded, so any exposed cuts or routed edges will loose the "molded grain". But, according to their website, you can take a propane torch to it and lightly heat it and will cause any exposed cuts to "blend" with the rest of the molded grain. I have got a couple test pieces I want to try this technique on first.

Slow and Steady

Started doing some machining on the chainplates. We will be using flat head socket cap screws instead of carriage bolts. This requires cutting countersinks on the holes already cut by the jet cutter. We will be using LARGE cap head screws, which will require large countersinks (up to 1.25 inch head diameter). I managed to find a countersink bit that was just large enough to fit the chuck of our drill press (1/2 inch) and large enough for the cap head screws.

The trick with cutting stainless is to go slow and steady. Keep the pressure constant. Not too hard, not to light. Watch the heat, dont let it get too hot. Use the slowest speed. Don't get startled by the screeching noises from the bit. Once the cut gets started, it tends to go nice and smooth as long as you keep a constant pressure.

Now our drill press is not the most precise of machining tools, but it is good enough for this application.

Many thanks to Colin for his tips on cutting stainless steel (see hs comments on the earlier post).

Library Recommendation

Yacht Design According to Perry

Not just another book on yacht design, and, not a promotion for his boats. Written for technical and non-technical readers. He gives interesting and funny accounts behind the design and production of some of his designs, including the "less famous" ones. Includes layman descriptions of technical terms used in yacht design, what they mean and how they shape a boat's "character" (terms like Ballast/Displacement, Sail Area/Displacement, Prismatic coefficients, etc).

Even if you don't own one of his designs, reading this book will give you insight to help you understand how and why your own boat behaves the way it does. We keep a copy aboard our 28 foot sloop and I am always browsing it late into the night by kerosene lamp. While it includes some math, no calculator required!